this is the most chaotically good quarantine food essay
If you need a palate cleanse from all the extremely earnest and twee quarantine food essays that have been floating around (that, to be fair, have giving us the closest approximation of experiencing food together that we can still have), it is time to read Jerry Saltz’s “My Appetites” essay in the last issue of New York mag. I cracked it open when it was raining this weekend and barely paid attention until halfway through the second page when Saltz begins excavating the defining tragedies of his childhood, the pure disarray of his early career, and the staunchly functional food that always backgrounded everything else.
A favorite part:
A snack for me was cutting off all the crusts of an entire loaf of white bread, wadding up the dough into a big ball, sitting in front of the TV, and eating it. I pretended I was a carp snipping and snapping at the ball till it was gone.
It is so chaotic. And it is so good. If you like experiencing vicarious he did what and THEN HE DID WHAT???? stress in the style of like, an Anthony Bourdain or David Carr memoir — or if you simply cannot look at another aesthetically cropped photo of someone’s dinner tonight — you’re going to love this. You will laugh and cry and then reach for a seatbelt that you feel like you should be unbuckling after being taken on such a lurching ride.
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